The "Live-Anywhere" Boat - The Trip South, 2011, Part VI, Bermuda, Home, and Summer, 2012
Updated December 15, 2012
With the time running out before my appointment for my second hip replacement, we said our good-byes. We changed the main engine oil and replaced the impeller, had one more dinner at La Marea, saw one more great sunset, and late in the afternoon of April 20th we scrubbed the chain, weighed anchor, and headed out of the bay.

The Mona Passage was relatively quiet, but as we cleared Punta Higueroa, at the northwest corner of Puerto Rico, and set our course for Bermuda, the sea picked up. We throttled back a little and headed a little more to the eastward for a more comfortable ride.

As usual, the ocean just north of Puerto Rico was full of ships, coming out of the Mona and Windward Passages and headed for Europe. We saw, at least on the AIS, Marguerite, for Gibraltar, Glasgow Express, Eternity Island, Star Prima, among many others.

We settled into our regular passage routine: standing our watches, getting a weather briefing from Herb Hilgenberg every afternoon, transferring fuel from the main tanks to the day tank, checking the engine room every half-hour. It was a slightly lumpy but otherwise completely uneventful passage, and late at night on the 25th we made VHF radio contact with Bermuda Radio.


Ploughing Into It
At 2:40 on the morning of April 26th we were alongside the Customs Wharf on Ordnance Island for clearance, and a little more than half-an-hour later we were tied to Penno's Wharf, where we stopped the engine for the first time since leaving Boqueron and turned in to enjoy what remained of the night uninterrupted.
The White Horse Tavern from Ordnance Island

The next morning we left St. George's and ran over to the old Dockyard, where we wanted to spend the weekend.We were glad to see our Bermuda friends again, includindg our new friend Scott, the American(!) captain of Spirit of Bermuda, who returned from a cruise just after we arrived, to squeeze into her regular berth just astern of us.
Bermuda

I was busy about the boat, as there were several maintenance chores to be done. We were still having a little trouble with the generator, trouble that was not finally resolved until the summer.

The weekend passed quickly, with much conviviality, and on Monday morning we worked our way into the tight confines of the marina at Dockyard ("Pier 41") and filled our water tanks, thanks to Willie Freeman, the manager. By 1:00 we were back in St. George's, at our old berth on Penno's Wharf

We had something new to look at, however -- Penno's Wharf doubles as a commercial pier and a bulk cargo ship had pulled in astern of our berth and was unloading a cargo of sand. Talking to Sandra Soares, the Dockmaster, we discovered that another large yaccht was due in and that our berth was needed for her, so we moved east a few feet to a space in front of the Heritage Center.

We walked around St. George's a little, enjoying the beautiful weather, and smiled as we passed the Hillside B&B, where I spent my first night ever in Bermuda, years ago, when I flew down to help Dodge Morgan with his autopilot problems on American Promise.


The Street Outside Steve Hollis's Ocean Sails

Our friends Steve and Suzanne Hollis, of Ocean Sails, are busy people. We wanted them to come aboard for a drink, at least, but ended up having drinks with them at the restaurant they have just taken over, on the grounds of the St. George's Club, the Beach House ("Blackbeard's Hideout"). They have an experienced partner who actually manages the restaurant, but they themselves are also very involved. It will be a very nice place when all is up and running and the bugs are out.
Typical St. George's

We could not stay long in Bermuda this time; the dockage in St. George's was all booked up and we had appointments in Maine. It seemed that leaving on Friday, May 4th, would give us at least half a weather window, so that morning we cleared out and swung the boat around, out through Town Cut, and headed north. The first day was pleasant enough, but the wind soon increased to a squally 25-30 knots and we slowed her down.
The Bulker Astern of Us Unloading Sand


Somers Garden, St. George's

Just to remind us that nothing can be taken for granted at sea, when I went to transfer fuel the pump would not pump. Well, this was serious, because the engine can only run from the day tanks, not the main storage tanks. So I dug out the spare from under our bunk and replaced the transfer pump -- simpler than trying to repair it in place. This was a messy job, with diesel all over in spite of lots of absorbent pads ("diapers"), but it did not take long, and soon we were able to move fuel around again.

We would go for long periods with no ships anywhere near, then we would have several, sometimes at the same time. It is all a matter of where they are coming from or going to in the US or the Caribbean. There are only a couple of exits from the Caribbean (which is why pirates had such good luck preying on Spanish treasure ships), then any traffic bound for the Gulf of Mexico (New Orleans and the Texas ports) from Europe pretty much has to go through the Northeast Providence Channel in the Bahamas. Then there will be another bunch heading for Charleston / Savannah, another for Chesapeake and Delaware Bays, and finally a group for New York.


Hillcrest B&B

One of the great uncertainties of the passage from Bermuda to New England is the location of the Gulf Stream. The U.S. Navy publishes forecasts, but of course by the time you reach the Stream at around 38° the latest forecast is already a couple of days old, and the eddies and tendrils shsift around. In addition, the Gulf Stream has changed character a little. When I was first making passages from Portland or Newport to Bermuda, the western edge of the Stream was well-defined and except for warm or cold eddies yo were either in the Stream or out of it. Nowdays, however, the flow is more fragmented, so one meets a tendril here and another there, making the choice of a course more difficult.
St, George's Courtyard

We arrived the evening of May 8th and called Customs and Border Patrol to announce our arrival in accordance with the float plan we had filed in Bermuda. Unfortunately, this procedure, which had worked splendidly in backwaters like St. John or Culebra, failed in Portland, even though it was in Portland that we first signed up. The agent on the phone said that the Small Vesel Reporting System was new, and they had not yet been trained on it, so we had to go into Portland, in a blue dungeon of fog, to clear in person.
East End Point, Chebeague

We spent the next week reactivating our house and unloading stuff from the boat. There was a good deal to do, because Barbara had to be left in good order for the time of my operation and recovery, but it all got finished and on the 21st I checked into Maine Medical Center. The operation went without a hitch, apparently (all I remember is the surgeon shaking my hand and saying it went very well). This time we chose a surgeon who uses a new procedure, where no muscle is cut, so the recovery time is supposed to be much shorter.
Seguin Island Light

I think it was the next day they sent me home from the hospital, and although I had to use a walker for the first week, everything was easy and painless. I found, though, that I tired easily. I did manage to go to my cousin Jack's Memorial Day party, but it was June 10th before I could get back to Barbara. I had been a little apprehensive about getting down over the rocky "beach" and into the dinghy, but it all went fine.I didn't actually get a lot of work done in the next few weeks, but I could at least run the generator as needed and do small jobs. I found I could also spend a couple of hours a day in the shop, so we did make a little progress..
The Cuckolds Light

In August we made our annual trip to Rockland for the Maine Boats and Harbors Show; we no longer exhibit there, but we go back every year to see the show, and more, to see old friends. In the past I have sometimes done this trip solo, but this time Barbara came with me, and we had decided that instead of pushing hard to get there in one day, that we would take three, stopping at pleasant anchorages along the way.
Ram Island Light, Fisherman's Island Passage


Our Harbor Island Anchorage


Sunset Over Harbor Island

On August 7th we headed out of the Bay, past Seguin Island Light, and headed east. We passed The Cuckolds and ran through narrow and picturesque Fisherman's Island Passage. We remembered the time we came through this passage and were joined by a large group of yachts, gold-plated sailing yachts and maxi racers, coming out of Boothbay Harbor.
Marshall Point Light, Off Port Clyde

We wondered, but then it dawned on us that this was the New York Yacht Club's Downeast Cruise and they were headed out for a day of racing off Boothbay. The day was wearing on as we passed Pemaquid Point, and we decided to head north into Muscongus Bay to find a suitable anchorage. What we found was Harbor Island, a snug anchorage that is actually between Harbor and Hart Islands. It is very pleasant and is clearly much used by yachts crossing Muscongus Bay.
Whitehead Island Light

We spent a very pleasant evening, and the next morning set off again, past Port Clyde, where we have often stopped, and past Whitehead Island into the Muscle Ridge Channel,.on the western edge of Panobscot Bay. Here we anchored between Dix and High Islands, known for granite quarries and much frequented by Chebeague Stone Sloops in the 19th and early 20th centuries. Again we had a beautiful afternoon and evening, bu tthe next morning brought a really thick pea-soup of fog.
Anchored Between Dix and High Islands

We did not have far to go, but it is a route of narrow channels and lots of ledges, but all familiar territory, and we made out fine, with a little help from the radar and the chart plotter. Finding a good spot to anchor in Rockland Harbor was a little tricky, but again we managed OK. We later moved a little so as to get a better Wi-fi connection, but for the moment we were fine.
The Dragon Cement Wharf, Rockland

We enjoyed the show and we enjoyed Rockland. We spent one afternoon watching the US Women's Soccer Team on their way to an Olympic gold medal. A highlight of the show itself was the paddleboard jousting, in which wildly costumed contestants (mainly respected members of the marine industgry in their other lives) tried to knock each other off paddleboards with long poles. I did take the time to stop in at Hamilton Marine to buy a compass for the dinghy, as the fog was still off and on, mostly on when we wanted to return to the boat in the evening.
Paddleboard Jousting Contestants

The show ran from Friday through Sunday, and on the Monday the fog finally cleared off. The pretty schooner Heritage ran close under our stern while getting her sails up and made a very pretty sight. We were not in any hurry, but about 09:00 we got underway and headed further up Penobscot Bay to Belfast, where Barbara was to have her bottom and decks repainted at Front Street Shipyard, run by our old friend J.B. Turner.. There was also some question about the generator, which had been erratic all summer.
One Jouster Takes a Fall


Heritage Sailed Close Aboard Our Stern


Bounty On Her Way to Sea

On the way we passed the replica <Bounty, on her way from Belfast out to sea. It is not every day one sees a square-rigged ship, even if she was under power. We were saddened to hear later that she was lost in hurricane Sandy.

Jason, the chief mechanic at Front Street Shipyard, made short work of finding the generator problem (loose wires in the control box), and Wednesday morning I put Barbara into the travel lift slings and by 11:00 she was blocked up in the huge new building for painting. Our friend Nancy Cline picked us up and drove us back to Chebeague, where we whiled away the boatless time by painting the living-room.


In the New Building at Front Street Shipyard

Two weeks later we picked Barbara up again and brought her home without incident.

We had been having intermittent troubles with the navigation computer, and as everyone knows, intermittent problems are the hardest to solve, as they cannot be counted on the show up under testing. I thought we had the problem fixed, but irecurred, so back we went to Rockland (by car this time) and Doug Barnes at Navroc hung in until we finally had it acting properly.

We decided to move Barbara for hurricane Sandy, so we went to a more sheltered harbor and stayed aboard. We actually had it better than most people, as we never lost power. We did lose our internet connection, however, since the island was without power for a time. Except for that, however, work on the boat continued, thanks to the very mild Fall, with warm weather right up through November.




To see our track in Google Earth click:
here for Boqueron to Bermuda

here for Bermuda to Chebeague

here for our summer wanderings

Part I
Part II
Part III
Part IV
Part V

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