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February 19-27, 2011 (posted March 20) |
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We had seen signs around the BVI that "Agriculture Week" was in progress while we were at Jost van Dyke, and one day
workers showed up and erected pavilions all along the street behind the beach; a fair and farm market on Jost
was to be part of the festivities.
We happily joined the crowd, listening to the local band while hearing about programs to make the British Virgin Islands more self-supporting by making agriculture more efficient. We also learned about social security and energy efficiency and bought some produce from a Tortola farmer. |
Another Shot Of Our Peter Island Berth |
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Anyone who works on boats knows that it is very easy to start on one job,
only to discover that three other things must be done first.
The big job I intended to get done this winter is installing the guest cabin, but I also had to replace the shower sump pump and re-route its piping. Although this would not be impossible with the dresser in the guest cabin installed, it would be much easier done before, so after moving all the pieces of cabin furniture into the saloon, along with all my tools, I spent a few days running pipe and wiring |
Contrasts: Spirit of Massachusetts and a Cruise Ship Anchored Off Road Town |
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instead of doing carpentry.
The new pump got a WaterWitch (water sensitive switch) to control it and a new junction box, and its wires had to be led out of the shower pan through a water-tight packing gland. Finally this was all done and everything put back together, so it became possible to cut the access hatches in the sole under the dresser and put it in place. Then, of course the same thing had to be done for the sole under the bunks. Fortunately, everything fit together and the only trimming necessary was on the bunk flats where they fit to the hull, where some extra wood was left on purpose. |
Rainbow Over Road Harbour |
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| I have mentioned before that we went "next door" to White Bay a few times to hear our old friend Reuben Chinnery sing (he is semi-retired now and only performs at bars belonging to relatives or good friends). The scene at White Bay is like Spring Break in Florida, with the addition of dozens of boats anchored just off the beach. We were somewhat over-dressed in shorts and t-shirts. |
The Beach Scene at White Bay |
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There is a certain incongruity between Reuben and this milieu, but that does not
seem to bother him or anyone else.
One night at Ivan's, where we were listening to Reuben perform just before we left Jost van Dyke, some friends came by, including Eddie, whom we first met during our first year in the BVI. He has a great bass voice, and he and Barbara sang harmony while another friend added a little percussion. A beautiful bitter-sweet night. |
Our Friend Reuben Chinnery playing at the Soggy Dollar Bar (BNP Photo) |
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We finally stowed the forward cabin pieces securely enough for a short passage and
reluctantly left Jost for Cruz Bay, on St. John, in the U.S. Virgin Islands. There
we worked our way alongside the Customs wharf in its tight corner and backed up as far
as possible to allow room for the ferries to the BVI, Oriole, and the
little Mona Queen.
Clearing in was quick and easy, and we were soon on our way again. We wanted to connect with our friends Les and Kit and Dotty. Dotty lives on St. Thomas, but Les and Kit were flying from the states -- provided the weather would let them. Les is an old Rugby friend from New York, and I was an usher at their wedding, ages ago. |
The Methodist Church, Great Harbour (BNP Photo) | ||
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We ran the short distance to St.
Thomas and anchored off Red Hook, on the eastern end of the island, but there was no shelter and
there did not seem to be much in the community of Red Hook to attract us, so we re-crossed
Pillsbury Sound and anchored off Cruz Bay.
Here it was just a short dinghy ride to the funky little vacation town, and we were in company with several live-aboard couples who seemed to work on St. John. We shopped and had a nice dinner at the Beach Bar -- which seems to be where many of the service workers spend their off hours. We met there a nice young mother and her son; when we told her we lived on a boat she said, "Oh, you're hippies! May I hug you?" and did. |
Explaining the Engine Room to Visiting Jost van Dyke School Children (BNP Photo) | ||
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Our dinghy outboard was becoming less and less reliable, and we did not like the anchorage at
Red Hook in any case, so the day Les and Kit were to arrive, we took a slip at the principal marina
in Red Hook, American Yacht Harbor.
Getting into the slip was quite a chore, as there was very little room for us to turn and back in. It was not, in our estimation a suitable slip for a 60' boat, but the manager told me they often have that row of slips full of 60' sport fishermen. Of course they are twin-screw boats, which makes a great difference. |
With Our Kenyan Friend Penny at the Dive Shop on Jost | ||
| Les and Kit finally arrived with Dotty, after a harrowing flight, bearing gifts of wine and cheese, and we had a very pleasant dinner on the after deck, something they would not want to try in New York on February 22nd. |
The Town of Cruz Bay From Our Anchorage | ||
| The next morning we took Les and Kit aboard, worked our way out of the marina, and ran back across to St. John, where we anchored in Francis Bay near the schooner Tabor Boy. It turned out that Les and Kit's daughter went to Tabor Academy and spent some time on the schooner, so that was a nice coincidence. The ride itself was a treat for them, and we had a swim and a leisurely lunch. |
Ashore in Cruz Bay | ||
| Eventually it was time to head back to Cruz Bay, where we anchored in our old spot and went ashore for a drink and more conversation. We loaded them on the ferry to St. Thomas in a scene that reminded us of Nantucket, with its swarm of vacationers rolling their suitcases. We really enjoyed the time with our friends, and we would have liked to get to know the man from Maine who sailed a pretty little double-ender down here, but we were also anxious to get west to Puerto Rico and our mail, so the day after Les and Kit left we weighed anchor and set out for Culebra, the first of the "Spanish Virgin Islands." |
A Pretty Little Boat Anchored Next to Us | ||
| We went north in Pillsbury Sound (between St. Thomas and St. John) and out west along the north coast of St. Thomas. With the northeast wind the rocky coast was a dead lee shore, so we hoped that nothing went wrong with the engine, but of course nothing did, and we were soon around the western end of St. Thomas. With the sea that was running, we decided to go out around Dutch Cap Cay instead of through the narrow passage betgween the cay and St. Thomas, but it was really not a long detour, and soon we were crossing Virgin Passage, headed for the buoy that marks the southern end of Arricife Culebrita. |
Money-Extraction Machine in Cruz Bay | By 3:00 we were anchored off the little town of Dewey (named by the navy for the famous admiral) and had cleared into the US again, this time by phone. Because the US Virgin Islands are a free port, one has to clear US customs again after leaving them. |
Barbara In a Tight Slip in Red Hook |
| We knew Dewey from other years, and found that not much has changed, except that there is still more development, more condos. Culebra is developing a strong environment protection movement, and we hope it has some success. The motto on Puerto Rico's license plates is "Isla del Encanto" (Island of Enchantment), but a common graffito in Dewey is "Isla del Cimento" (Island of Cement). We shudder to think what will happen to the former navy base on Vieques once the military is finished clearing up unexploded ordnance. |
Les, Barbara, and Kit in the Beach Bar in Cruz Bay | ||
| We hope it does not become like St. Thomas, which is very heavily developed. On the other hand, St. John is largely a national park, but one result of this is that the land not controlled by the Park Service is full of gated condo communities with prices out of reach for most people. It is a difficult question, but there must be a good balance sonmewhere. |
Even the North Side of St. Thomas is Very Developed | ||
| We spent three days anchored in Ensenada Honda, the large and secure harbor of Culebra, and we saw some interesting boats, notably the former North Sea trawler Wanderbird. She hails from Belfast (Maine, not Ireland) and is owned by a couple who use her to sail parties. We did the things we usually do in Dewey; mailed letters, lunched at Mamacita's, and walked around the town a little, but those stories are for the next installment. |
The Little Town of Dewey, on Culebra | ||